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Isla Grande is an exciting
and popular place in Panama that people
simply know as "La Isla" (The
Island). The island is inside the Portobelo
National park, just 5 minutos by motor
boat from the small town of La Guaira
on the main land that makes its living
out fishing and tourism.
Isla grande has a population
of about 300 inhabitants and its surface
is mostly covered with plants and trees
and its shoreline is surrounded by coral
reefs. It is one of the favorit panamaninan
turist destinations and on holidays
it receives visitors that fill its small
beaches and its narrow town roads
Before the Bocas del Toro
disaster, it was already occurring at
Isla Grande. The island spent most of
the 20th century relatively isolated
and only visited by adventurers. It
is said that one French ambassador to
Panama, bought a house at La Guaira
years ago, and then the French started
to come to Isla Grande.
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The American "gringos"
also then discovered the island and
would come when almost nobody else would
care to come. Then the government fixed
the main roads leading from Panama and
Colon to Isla Grande and the tourists
started to come in mass, reality that
the small island inhabitants and its
ecosystems have had to endure.
Visiting
Isla Grande is very quiet
on weekdays and it s possible to spend
a night in solitude camping on the beach.
On weekends and holidays, up to one
thousand tourists may show up. There
are not that many places to go, but
there is people all over the place.
Parties are easy to find wherever they
may pop up and meeting people is all
but inevitable.
The town is not big, but
its inhabitants are very friendly and
you must also reciprocate.
Tap water comes from underground
and it is treated. Electricity comes
from the main land. There are no cars.
It is possible to walk
around the island to see the islands
on the north side. There are stones
along the trails, so you should wear
good shoes to handle the terrain. To
go around the island, it will be necessary
to cross the fenced beach by the Hotel
that is "en la punta" (south
beach.)
The island is just 166
meters from the main land and in case
of emergency you sure can try making
swimming but you are warned that only
triathlon athletes have dared to be
up to the task. A motor boat is the
way to go . The sea is clear, unless
the weather starts acting up; the sand
is white-gray. To the west of the island
is "La Punta", which is the
really the only real sand beach left
in the Island. There is a small hut
where tourists can buy beer and delicious
and cheap food .
There is also the "refresqueria
El Recuerdo de Mis Padres" (My
parents memory refreshments), a quiet
place selling beer for 50 cents and
of course the Restaurante de Pupy, with
a lot of reggae music, a sophisticated
bar and a party in the afternoon. The
Restaurante Bar Isla Tropical gets the
party going every weekend with music
and lots of dancing.
Movistar cellphone service
does not have service at the island
but there is a public phone ( 448-2189).
The
Lighthouse
(El faro)
For that rare moment that
the Caribbean sea does not have you
snoring while sleeping on a hammock
or when you are asleep on the sand beach,
it is worth it to grab the camera and
take a walk to the lighthouse. You have
to walk to the east side of the island,
and just before the Sister Moon Hotel
you can see the trail going up the hill.
From here it will be about 5 to 10 minutes
to reach the top of the hill, where
the light house and a communications
tower are located.
El Faro de Isla Grande
was designed and built when the French
were building the Panama Canal. The
original lense was designed by Gustave
Eiffel, the very one that built the
Eiffel tower in Paris.
To go up the light house
you have to go through and opening on
the fence around it, and then walk up
a staircase in the shape of a snail
shell that is very long. Avoid this
part of the trip if you are claustrophobic.
Once at the top there is a small balcony
around the top where you can feel the
wind blowing strong. The view is awesome.
To the north, Tambor Island, the northernmost
point in Panama, to the south La Guaira
and Juan Gallego and further south the
Linton and Cabra Islands.
Food
You can find restaurants
at the island with all kinds of prices:
El Churunguito en La Punta ($2.50) to
a gourmet restaurant ($15). All the
seafood comes from the same place and
when served they "almost"
arrive alive, meaning that have been
recently been fished. The are some convenience
stores that sell everything else you
may need. There is no problem with drinking
alcoholic beverages on public places
here.
El restaurante El Nido
del Postre serves desserts and gourmet
food ( at gourmet prices), tropical
mediterranean style, a la carte, and
also on large orders. Call. 448-2061
/ 6684-4088.
Besides patacones or rice
with coconut, vegetarians don't have
to much of a choice.
Lodging.
There are many places
to stay, from hotels to houses for rent.
Prices for the more established places
vary by season.
Restaurante Cabañas
Cholita: B/.38 – B/.45 per room
for two people, B/.85 per room for up
to 8 people. Tel. 228-2962 / 232-4561.
Villa Ensueño:
a classic, directly in front of the
Cristo Negro. B/.38 – B/.22 for
one bed, B/.45 – B/.50 for two
beds, also with a camping area available.
There is a restaurant and souvenir shop
with other items that are also easily
forgotten at home (towels, tooth brush,
etc.). Tel. 448-2964.
Cabañas Candy Rose:
B/.25 a B/.40 for two, B/.90 for a cabin(with
a/c). Tel. 448-2947 / 6656-6917.
Hotel Aguamarina Eco Lodge:
B/.15 for one person, B/.25 per couple,
cabins with kitchen, refrigerator and
water. Tel. 6527-0909.
Hotel Sister Moon: At
the of the trail. Tels 226-9861 / 674-1473.
Diverse house for rent:
ask around town .
Bananas Resort: On the
north side of the Island, mainly built
over the coral reef.
Camping
The best beach is the
one at La Punta. There is no water but
the one at the Hotel , and there is
not a lot of wood around but the place
is beautiful. The farther you set up
your tent , the farther the tourists
will show up around it on Sunday. If
you end up there with your group alone,
don't forget to skinny dip on the beach.
It is highly recommended.
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