Where
have 12 countries filmed their Survivor series
including France, Spain, Italy and Russia?
The answer is the exotic Bocas del Toro Archipelago
de Bocas in the Caribbean of West Panama near
the border with Costa Rica. Classic Caribbean
aqua blue water fringed beaches washing up against
nature dense rainforest and a low key friendly
town- these are some of the unique attractions
of the islands of Panama's Bocas del Toro archipelago.
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Bocas is one of
Panama's top tourist attractions and with good
reason. Where else can you enjoy beautiful beaches
with scarcely a soul in sight and rainforests
so fine they're called "a biologists fantasy".
Bocas town itself has a rich history, a lively
nightlife and a friendly, mostly English speaking
population.Like the rest of Panama Bocas is
even blessed by nature- no hurricanes ever touch
these shores, as they do the Central American
neighbors. Add to that relatively low prices
and you've got the "Boca's Boom".
The first person to anchor
in these peaceful waters was Christopher Columbus
in 1502. He repaired his boats onCarinero
Island, named by him. Later, English pirates found
Bocas the perfect safe haven and later in the 1800's
it it became a dynamic commercial center for trade
in cacao and bananas. Immigrants, mainly from Jamaica,
made Bocas an English speaking province in a Spanish
speaking nation. Even today, most adults speak English.
At the turn of the century, the town of Bocas del
Toro was the first headquarters of the United Fruit
Company. Boasting of 25,000 inhabitants, it had six
consuls and five newspapers. A banana blight in the
l920's put an end to this vibrant commercial center,
but historical buildings and a stately park still
stand.
In the last few years, Bocas has been experiencing
a real estate boom. Prices of land have skyrocketed.
Still, they represent some of the best buys in the
Caribbean. Who is buying in Bocas? Mostly
American "baby boomers" who are snapping up $25,000
beach front lots with an eye to building a vacation/retirement
home in the near future. Even on a retirement income,
in Bocas you can enjoy "the good life" in safe and
beautifull surroundings.
Hotels are economical and range from $5 a night for
the pack backer crowd, lots of attractive middle range
hotels in the $25-60 range and a few fine upscale
island resorts over $90.
To get there:
Aeroperlas
and Turismo
Aereo have several daily flights from
Panama City and David in West Panama near the border
with Costa Rica. Round trip tickets from Panama City
are around $120 and if you want to just get there
and enjoy they islands, this would be your preferred
form of transportation. I personally once flew from
Panama city to Bocas Island and the plane trip was
really nice and quick. Rather spending time, energy
and many hours to get there, my energies were saved
and spent mainly on touring around the islands.
Alternatively you can take a bus or car to Almirante
and take a ferry to Bocas, on the main island, Isla
Colon. In Almirante, there is a safe place to leave
your vehicle for the duration of your stay in Bocas.
The drive between David and Almirante is very scenic
as you climb the mountains that are behind Baru Volcano
and eventually descend to the Atlantic coast.
Highlights:
Beaching, island tours, snorkeling,
diving, surfing, dolphin observation, sea kayaking,
wind surfing, laid back nightlife, ecotourism/rainforest
tours, birdwatching, vacation/retirement homes and
just plain walking around.
Best beaches:
Bluff Beach: on Isla Colon
where most of the hotels are. You can take a taxi
or bicycle a few miles to Bluff Beach, the easiest
one to reach and the first really pretty beach. Just
before Bluff Beach is Punch Beach , a less scenic
beach but one with a reputation for great surfing.
Neither of these beaches are safe for swimmers- just
for getting wet.
Bocas del Drago: Another
beautiful beach on the main island and a bit farther
away. When the seas are calm, the snorkeling is good.
Red Frog Beach: On Isla
Bastimientos, this is Boca's most beautiful beach.
And you won't miss the red frog with black polka dots
who calls out to you as you walk through the rainforest.
Isla Bastimiento is the only place in the world where
this scarlet creature lives.
Playa Larga: Another lovely
beach on Isla Bastimientos and if you camp out you
may see the famous sea turtles.
Cayos Zapatillos Beautiful
white sand beaches lined with palms and away from
it all.
Beach Warning: Many Bocas beaches
have strong undertows at times and can be dangerous
for swimming. Before you swim out into the waves consult
your tour operator and/or the locals regarding the
safety of swimming at a particular beach.
Things to do:
Diving and Snorkeling: The
best places for diving are Hospital Point, Coral Key,
Dark Wood Reef and Punta Juan buoy. For snorkeling,
the Garden near Cayo Nancy, Hospital Point and Punta
Juan buoy are excellent. Go with a diving tour operator
or hire a water taxi and go on your own.
When diving in Bocas you will be able to see some
of the best preserved hard and soft coral in the world.
You will also have the opportunity to see sting rays,
lobsters, many species of crabs and a countless variety
of tropical reef fish. Get certified: Bocas Water Sports
offers PADI scuba courses from Discover Scuba, open
water including certification in Advanced, Rescue,
First Aid or Dive Master courses that cost a lot less
than similar courses in the United States. Boat Rentals : Careening Cay Marina
has 15 and 20 foot boat launches for rent. Tel: 757-9242
Rainforests: Flora is everywhere-
mangroves and jungles line the coast. Exotic Bird
Island has birds seen only on that island. You need
a nature guide to enjoy more than just exotic scenery
and so we recommend you take a tour with a tour operator.
Nightlife: Bocas is a low-key
and friendly town where it is easy to meet with fellow
travelers and the local people. In some places, every
night it's a party. Start with the Barco Hundido bar
and the Buena Vista Deli & Bar, known for good
times and good food. The crowd is both young and mature.
The night life is very safe.
Shopping: Near the end of
Bocas' Main St. as you walk towards the sea on the
right is Bribri, a marvelous handicrafts store. Friendly
owner Manuel has a wide selection of fine local Indian
crafts and is happy to explain about the work and
culture of the Indian artisans.
On the opposite end of the main street, on the right
just before the end, walking away from the sea, is
a streetside display of molas attended by the Kuna
Indians. Panama is famous for its molas-colorful reverse
applique cloth designs. This humble stand has the
best selection of molas we have seen anywhere. You
have the added satisfaction of purchasing directly
from the Indians and knowing your dollar will go a
long way to helping these worthy people.
Restaurants: Bocas restaurants
are easy on the budget and have a surprising variety
of offerings. For seafood we recommend El Pecado on
main street for dishes that will satisfy the sophisticated
palate but reasonably priced. The lobster is especially
good. Across the street from El Pecado, La Laguna
Hotel offers mostly Italian dishes including a yummy
pizza, has street side seating making it the best
place in town for people watching.It also offers a
fun all-you-can eat Sunday brunch for $5. Bahia Hotel
has a good Italian restaurant with some of the best
pizza in town. For gringo food, we recommend the Buena
Vista Deli.Two other popular and good restaurants
are Om for East Indian food and Mondo Taitu for vegetarian
fare.
Outside the town of Bocas: For seafood in incomparable
surroundings take a water taxi to Restaurant Coral
Cay, perched on stilts over the sea. Your lobster
will be picked live from a sea cage and you will enjoy
gorgeous seaviews all around as you wait for your
dish to be prepared.
Special Treats Not to Be Missed:
Some of the best cinnamon rolls in the Americas are
baked in a Bocas bakery. You can buy them at the Laguna
Hotel restaurant and in The Gourmet Shop near the
main plaza.
Learn Spanish: The best
way to learn a language is to be in a place where
the language is spoken. Take advantage of your Bocas
stay by taking a Spanish course at Spanish-By-The-Sea,
an excellent place to learn Spanish. See their listing
below.
Panama Tourism Board (IPAT) Information
Center: Panama's Board of Tourism offers
a handsome visitors center right downtown. Designed
in wood in a lovely Caribbean style, typical of Bocas,
it has an excellent exhibition in both English and
Spanish of the natural history and the rich human
history of the Archipelago